Gadh Bhavani Temple

Dabhoi Fort, Tal. Dabhoi, Dist. Vadodara

Dabhoi, historically known as Darbhavati, is a significant city in Gujarat. Its name derives from the Darbha grass, which is considered sacred in Hindu and Buddhist traditions and grows abundantly in this area. In the 13th century, a fortified wall was constructed around the city, transforming it into a stronghold. Near the famous Hira Gate of the fort stands the ancient temple of Gadh Bhavani Devi, which was formerly known as the Kalika Temple. The unique architecture, intricate carvings and sculptures of the Hira Gate and the temple attract devotees, researchers and tourists alike.

Dabhoi has a history spanning many centuries. The city is mentioned in the ancient astrological text ‘Romakasiddhanta’, dated to the 6th century, indicating the city’s existence even before that period. In the 8th century, the city was under the rule of the Chavda dynasty from Anhilwad (Patan). The last Chavda king, Samantsinh, having no son, adopted his nephew Mulraj. However, in 942 CE, Mulraj usurped the throne and established Chalukya rule in the region. During the Chalukya reign, Dabhoi gained administrative and commercial importance, but it was already known as a sacred pilgrimage site for Hindus even before their rule.

According to the research paper ‘Dabhoi – An Urban Settlement of Central Gujarat c.1000 – c.1800 A.D.’ by Adhya Bharti Saxena, published in ‘Proceedings of the Indian History Congress (Vol. 61, Part One)’, Dabhoi’s prominence as a pilgrimage center was mainly due to the temple of Kalika Devi (Gadh Bhavani). It was an important stop on the pilgrimage route from North Gujarat to Chanod. In the 13th century, after the Chalukyas, Dabhoi came under the Vaghela dynasty, who claimed Chalukya descent. King Veerdhaval Vaghela (died 1242 CE) is believed to have built the Dabhoi Fort and the Kalika (Gadh Bhavani) Temple.

In his book ‘The Ruins of Dabhoi or Darbhavati’ (Baroda State Press, 1940), historian Dr. Hiranand Shastri, Director of the Baroda State Archaeology Department, narrates a legend of King Veerdhaval. According to it, King Veerdhaval had seven queens, among whom Ratanali was the chief consort, known for her beauty and virtue. Jealous co-queens tried to cast spells to prevent her from conceiving. Despite this, she became pregnant and left for Chanod, a pilgrimage site, to protect her unborn child. On the way, she halted near a pond in Dabhoi, where a hermit blessed her with a prophecy of a son and advised her to stay there. Eventually, she gave birth to Vishaldev, who was later declared heir to the throne by King Veerdhaval. Upon Ratanali’s request, Veerdhaval fortified the city around the place of his son’s birth and renovated the pond.

The Archaeological Survey of India and the Gujarat Tourism Department manage the heritage site of Dabhoi Fort. The fort has four grand gates – Hira Gate, Baroda Gate, Nandod (Chanod) Gate and Mahudi (Champaner) Gate. Hira Gate, the most famous and architecturally stunning, stands next to the Kalika Mata (Gadh Bhavani) Temple. Two inscriptions found inside this gate, known as ‘Someshwar Prashasti’, state that Vishaldev (1243–1261 CE) constructed the gate and the temple. Some historians believe the gate was originally damaged and later restored by Vishaldev. All four gates are masterpieces of stone architecture and sculpture.

According to legend, a master architect named Hira built these structures. To ensure that he would not replicate such beauty elsewhere, King Vishaldev imprisoned Hira in the temple’s basement for six years. His wife provided food and water through a small window. When new constructions were planned, Hira was released. This window still exists in the outer wall on the north side of Hira Gate and it is said the gate was named in his honour. Alternatively, some claim the name derives from the gate’s exceptional beauty.

The eastern Hira Gate is indeed the most beautiful of all. Supported by six arches, the gate is intricately carved on both inner and outer walls. The niches and shrines within the gatehouse contain statues of Shiva, Vishnu, Lakshmi, Chamunda and others. Mythological carvings like Samudra Manthan (Churning of the Ocean) are featured. A large sculpture of an elephant with a rider, possibly representing King Vishaldev or Veerdhaval, is located on the inner walls near a balcony, surrounded by carvings of horsemen and soldiers.

Near this gate stands the ancient temple of Kalika Devi, also known as Gadh Bhavani, the protective goddess of Dabhoi. The temple has undergone partial renovation in recent times. Entry is through marble steps and a doorway with old sculpted pillars. A pathway through the fortified corridor leads to the temple, with thick stone pillars adorned with leaf, floral and geometric motifs. A vermillion-coated Hanuman idol is enshrined on an inner wall of the corridor.

The temple’s main entrance is built from stone with semi-circular pillars and a Ganesh idol above the lintel. The threshold features a crescent-shaped stone, flanked by Kirtimukha motifs. Inside is a modest assembly hall (Sabhamandap) with round, thick and beautifully carved pillars. On the left is the sanctum (Garbhagriha), near which stands a Hanuman idol.

The sanctum houses a stone idol of Gadh Bhavani, enshrined in a silver canopy on a marble pedestal. The idol is richly adorned with garments, a golden crown, a nose ring and a silver umbrella above her head. A trident (trishul) is placed to the left of the idol.

The temple’s exterior walls also feature intricate carvings of deities, animal motifs and mythological scenes. Some carvings depict erotic sculptures, which, as per Dr. Devangana Desai’s ‘Erotic Sculptures of India: A Socio-Cultural Study’, are part of traditional temple iconography and not meant for eroticism.

Regular worship and rituals are performed in this temple. In the morning, after bathing the goddess, she is dressed in new clothes. Then, the goddess is formally worshipped. Offerings are presented to the goddess twice a day. Here, the Chaitra and Sharadiya Navratri festivals are celebrated with enthusiasm. Various programs are organized on these occasions. During the Sharadiya Navratri festival, more than ten thousand devotees come for the goddess’s darshan. Devotees offer sarees, chunaris, coconuts, and food offerings to the goddess. During this time, the surrounding area takes on the appearance of a fair. During this festival, the Ghatasthapana (establishing of a sacred pot) is performed in the sanctum sanctorum. Worship is performed daily for all nine days. In the evening, garba (traditional dance) events are organized in the surrounding area. In the month of Chaitra and on the day of Dussehra, the flag atop the temple’s spire is changed.