In the old part of Vadodara city, specifically in the Rangmahal Wadi area, you can see many old residences (wadas) and two- or three-storey buildings. Among these stands a weathered three-storey mansion. With extensive use of wood, intricately carved columns and arches, and lattice railings, the structure gives no immediate hint of housing a magnificent and ancient temple within. Yet, hidden behind these tall walls lies one of Vadodara’s oldest Ganesh temples.
The temple is known as Dhundiraj Ganpati or sometimes referred to as Mairal Ganpati. The history of this temple is tied to the reign of the Gaekwad dynasty in Vadodara (formerly known as Baroda). In 1721, Pilajirao Gaekwad, the commander of Chhatrapati Shahu Maharaj I, captured Baroda from the Mughals. Shahu Maharaj rewarded the city to him as a fiefdom (jagir). By the mid-18th century, the Gaekwad dynasty had firmly established its rule here. According to historian V.K. Rajwade’s “Marathyanchya Itihasachi Sadhane” (Sources of Maratha History, Vol. 6), Gopalrao Mairal served as a chief administrator under Sayajirao Gaekwad I, the grandson of Pilajirao. Later, during Malharrao Gaekwad’s rule, Gopalrao became the prime minister (Diwan) of Baroda State. A devout and pious individual, he was known for granting land to Brahmins, providing alms to ascetics, and building temples. In 1844, he established the Dhundiraj Ganesh temple, also known as Mairal Ganpati, in Vadodara.
This temple is a beautiful fusion of Maratha and Gujarati architectural styles. Constructed primarily of teak wood, its design reflects the grandeur of the Peshwa-era mansions (wadas). The facade of the mansion resembles a three-storey building, and although it appears old and worn, its beauty remains intact. The entrance porch is supported by two wooden pillars resting on stone bases, each topped with carvings of small celestial nymphs (surasundari). The wooden doorframe features intricate vine motifs, and above it, a wooden lintel with an image of Lord Ganesh is carved. Above this, flowers are etched into the upper wall, along with a plaque that reads, “Shri Mairal’s Shri Dhundiraj Ganpati Temple, Mairal Wadi, Baroda,” marking the presence of the temple within the mansion.
Upon entering, there is a small shrine on a raised stone platform to the left, housing marble idols of Lakshmi and Kubera. In the centre of the courtyard stands a two-storey temple structure. A little further ahead, on a high marble pedestal, is a canopy (chhatri) sheltering a marble idol of Ganesh’s vehicle, the mouse (mushak). This mouse is depicted standing on its hind legs, holding a sweet (laddu) in its front paws, which rests on a small pillar adorned with carved human figures. The dome of the canopy is adorned by four corner statues of elephants.
The temple itself stands on a tall platform (adhisthana) and consists of a small porch, an assembly hall (sabhamandapa), and a sanctum (garbhagriha). The platform is decorated with carvings of elephants and circular flowers. The entrance to the porch is supported by square wooden pillars, while half-pillars are embedded in the walls of the assembly hall. These pillars are linked by intricately carved wooden arches (toranas). On both sides of the entrance, small and large niches contain deities. The broad doorframe is adorned with a carved Ganesh idol, while the upper wall features an image of Ganesh with his consorts, Riddhi and Siddhi.
The spacious assembly hall is rectangular and has large windows on the right, while the left side is open. There are six columns on each side of the hall, connected at the top by wooden arches decorated with floral carvings and intricate painting. The sanctum’s entrance and the main wall are beautifully carved. Despite the extensive use of teak wood throughout the temple, the entrance to the sanctum is made of stone, with extended jambs (dwarsakha) carved with niches and small holes. The outer stone pillars and lintels feature detailed carvings, and the images of gatekeepers (dwarapalas) are sculpted at the base of the pillars. Above the doorframe is another image of Ganesh, and above it is a decorative arch featuring mythical figures (vyalas).
Inside the sanctum, on an elevated pedestal, sits a stunning marble idol of Lord Ganesh, flanked by Riddhi and Siddhi. In front of them are small metal idols of Ganesh’s sons, Labh and Lakshya, as well as a metal Shiva linga, a turtle, and a conch. A stone turtle is placed near the entrance to the sanctum, in front of an octagonal marble basin. In the centre of the basin stands a small pillar that holds an oil lamp used during the arti.
An interesting legend surrounds this temple. It is said that there is an underground tunnel behind the sanctum, measuring about eight feet in height, ten feet in width, and extending 200 feet. This tunnel is believed to lead to the residence of Gopalrao Mairal and a nearby lake.
The Dhundiraj Ganesh Temple is a revered place for the devotees of Vadodara. Every day, the morning and evening arti are performed here, accompanied by the playing of traditional instruments such as the shehnai and choughada (drums). The temple witnesses large gatherings during festivals like Ganesh Chaturthi, Angarki Chaturthi, Maghi Ganeshotsav, and Bhadrapad Ganeshotsav, with special celebrations organised by the many Marathi families residing in the area. The temple is open for darshan (viewing of the deity) daily from 5 AM to 8 PM. The descendants of Gopalrao Mairal continue to oversee the temple’s management to this day.
Key Highlights
6 km from Vadodara Bus Station and 6.5 km from Vadodara Railway Station
Direct ST bus service is available from many cities in Gujarat to Vadodara
Private vehicles can access the temple directly
Numerous accommodation and refreshment options are available in the vicinity
