Bhagavatī Devī Temple

Pernem, North Goa District

Bhagavati is revered as a manifestation of Adi Shakti Devi. Just as in Hinduism, the term Bhagavati is also used in Buddhism to refer to the Goddess. There are many ancient and renowned temples dedicated to Bhagavati Devi across our land. In Goa, the temples of Bhagavati Devi at Haladolanakarini in Khandola, Chimulakarini in Marcela, and those in Parse and Mulgaon are celebrated. Among these, one such temple is located in Pernem town in North Goa, and devotees hold the firm belief that the awakened Goddess here grants their wishes.

This temple is said to be approximately five hundred years old. This Devi is the Kuladevata, the family deity, of many clans in the Konkan region. The Devi Bhagavata Purana describes the glorious attributes of Bhagavati Devi. This sacred text contains descriptions and the greatness of many forms of the Devi, such as Prakriti, Paraprakriti, Maya, Adimaya, Radha, Vaishnavi, Gayatri, Bhagavati, Jagadamba, Siddhi, Siddhidha, Buddhi, Nidra, Kshudha, Pipasa, Chhaya, Tandra, Daya, Smriti, Chetana, Pushti, Tushti, Shashti, Mangalachandi, Manasa, and Bhramari. Devi Bhagavati is the unified form of the three Devis—Saraswati, Lakshmi, and Kali—who represent the Sattva, Rajas, and Tamas gunas respectively. Some scriptures also refer to Devi Bhagavati as Radha, the shakti of Krishna, who is the Moolapurusha, the primordial being.

After the arrival of the Portuguese in the province of Goa, many Hindu temples were destroyed. Yet, some temples survived even during that period and stand to this day. The temple of Bhagavati Devi in Pernem is one such sacred shrine. This temple holds special significance as it is one of the few original temples in Goa. Near this temple, which is situated alongside the main road, there are many shops selling puja materials. One enters the temple courtyard through the gateway in the compound wall surrounding the temple. On both sides of the entrance, there are square pillars. These pillars are adorned with crescent-shaped arches, upon which rest balconies, and above these balconies are the *bāśiṅga* (ornamental headgear), crowned with *śikhara* (spires).

As the temple’s expansive courtyard is situated in a lower area than the road, one descends a few steps to enter the courtyard. Within the temple’s paver-block-covered courtyard, along the boundary wall, there are seats for devotees to rest. In the courtyard, on a raised platform, stands a five-tiered *deepmal*. In front of the temple, on either side of the entrance, there are two platforms adorned with sculptures of majestic elephants (*Gajraj*). Torches are held aloft in the raised trunks of these *Gajraj*. The temple’s structure comprises the *Sabhamandap*, the main *Sabhamandap*, the *Antaral*, and the *Garbhagriha*. The semi-open *Sabhamandap* features four rows of square pillars. All pillars stand upon square pillar bases. In the *Sabhamandap*, crescent-shaped *toranas* adorn the pillars in the two central rows. The tiled roof of the *Sabhamandap* is supported by a wooden structure.

Further on, the main enclosed assembly hall is graced by a crescent-shaped entrance. The pillars on the left and right sides within this main assembly hall are connected by crescent-shaped arches.

In this assembly hall, there are stone benches on both sides for devotees to sit. Further ahead, there is a raised platform, several feet high, with steps to ascend it. On both sides of the entrance to the antechamber (antarala), there are sculptures of guardian deities (pratihari dvarapala). These four-armed dvarapalas hold a conch, discus, mace, and lotus. This entrance features ornate doorframes (stambhashakha) and auspicious sculptures (ishtashilpa) at the lintel (lalatabimba). Within the antechamber, there are four rows, each with four square pillars. To exit the antechamber, there are two additional doors, one on the left and one on the right.

Ahead is the entrance to the Garbhagriha, the sanctum sanctorum. On both sides of the entrance are devakoshthakas, niches housing stone murtis of local deities. Above the pillars flanking the entrance is a chhatratorana, a decorative archway. The entrance itself features ornate pilaster strips and a Kirtimukha on the lintel. Within the Garbhagriha, upon a vajra-pitha, a diamond throne, resides the black stone murti of Bhagavati Devi, in Her eight-armed Mahishasuramardini form. Upon the Devi’s sacred head rests a crown of pure silver, and in Her divine hands She holds various auspicious weapons such as the trishul, sword, shield, pasha, and spear. Her form is adorned with intricately carved garments and ornaments. Behind the murti, the silver prabhavali is embellished with delicate designs of leaves and flowers.

On the temple roof, towards the entrance, there are meghadambaris on both the left and right sides. The roof of the antarala features a square, domed shikhara, with an amalaka at its pinnacle, topped by a kalasha. The roof of the garbha-griha has a two-tiered shikhara. The lower, first tier of this shikhara is hexagonal, and the upper tier is domed.

Within the precincts of this temple stands the shrine of Devi Sateri. The temple is situated on a raised plinth, higher than the temple courtyard, and is accessed by ten steps. The Sateri Devi Mandir is structured with a mukhamandapa, a sabhamandapa, and a garbhagriha. The sabhamandapa here is semi-open. Within the sabhamandapa, there are stone benches for devotees to sit upon, and pillars connecting these benches are adorned with arched niches. The wooden doorframes of the garbhagriha here are intricately carved with various forms of the Devi. At the lalāṭabimba, there is an image of Shri Ganapati. Inside the garbhagriha, on a vajrapiṭha, resides the black stone murti of Devi Sateri. Adjacent to this temple is the Dvarapala Mandir. It is structured with a sabhamandapa and a garbhagriha. Within its garbhagriha, on the ground, stands the murti of the Dvarapala deity in an upright stone form.

Here, the main annual festival of Dussehra is celebrated with great enthusiasm. The Navratri festival is observed continuously for fifteen days, from Ashwin Shuddha Pratipada to Pournima. On Dussehra, a palanquin procession of the Devi takes place. Amidst the resounding beats of drums and cymbals, with devotees showering gulal, the Devi seated in Her palanquin embarks on a circumambulation of the village. Thousands of devotees from the surrounding areas participate in this ceremony. During Navratri, devotees offer a sari, choli, and auspicious ornaments to the Devi, filling Her oti with khana-naral (a traditional offering of a blouse piece and coconut). All festivals and celebrations throughout the year, such as Chaitra Padwa, Holi, Diwali, Kojagiri Pournima, and Shravan Maas, are observed in the temple. During all festivals, programs like bhajan, kirtan, pravachan, jagaran, gondhal, and mahaprasad are organized in the temple. On Tuesdays, Fridays, Pournima, Amavasya, Ashtami, and other such days, there is a large gathering of devotees who come for darshan at the temple. Devotees can have darshan at this temple daily from nine in the morning to one in the afternoon, and from half past three in the afternoon to eight at night.

Helpful Information:

• Three hundred metres from the Pernem bus stand
• State transport bus facilities are available to Pedne from many cities across the state.
• Private vehicles may come up to the temple.
• Many options for lodging and breakfast in the vicinity